Bali Belly: How to Eat to Protect Your Gut in the Tropics
You land in Bali, the air is thick and warm like a hug from Mama Bali herself, the frangipani smells divine, and within 48 hours you are sprinting to the bathroom wondering what on earth you did wrong.
Welcome to Bali belly. Almost a rite of passage, and yet not one we would wish on anyone.
After more than a decade living, teaching and cooking here in Canggu, first at Samadi and now at Ubuntu, I have seen it all. Students arriving bright eyed for their first Mysore practice, then disappearing for three days with a bottle of electrolytes and a sad face. I have also been there myself, more than once, so no judgement here.
The good news is that our gut is a lot like our practice. It responds to what we show up with every day. Small habits, a little awareness, and the right food on the plate can make all the difference between a holiday spent on the mat and one spent on the toilet. So let's talk about it, openly, as we do at Ubuntu, bellies and all.
What is Bali belly, and why does it happen?
Bali belly is simply the local nickname for traveller's diarrhoea. Cramps, loose stools, sometimes nausea, a bit of fever, and a general feeling that your body has gone on strike. For most people it passes within two to four days.
It is usually caused by bacteria, most often a strain of E. coli, and sometimes by a virus or a parasite. They travel in through contaminated water, ice, unwashed fruit and salads, or food that has been sitting too long in the heat.
But here is the part I find fascinating. It is not only about "dirty" food. Your gut carries its own little community of bacteria, your microbiome, and it is used to home. Then you arrive, jet lagged, dehydrated from the flight, a few Bintangs at sunset, new spices, new water, new everything. Your inner ecosystem is suddenly stepping into the unknown, and when the system is already out of balance, it takes far less to tip it over.
So Bali belly is a bit of both. What comes in, and the terrain it lands on.
How to avoid Bali belly: little habits, big difference
No need to live in fear and eat only crackers in your villa. Bali has some of the most beautiful food on the planet. A few mindful habits will carry you a long way.
Start with the water. Drink only filtered or bottled water, and yes, that includes brushing your teeth. Bring a reusable bottle and refill it at cafés and refill stations, the ocean will thank you too. Ice is less scary than its reputation: most cafés in Canggu use factory-made tube ice, the ones with a little hole in the middle, which is generally safe. The chunky irregular blocks from a roadside cooler, maybe skip.
Wash your hands often, before eating, after the beach, after the scooter, and definitely after petting that very cute temple dog. Choose food that is freshly cooked and hot, and trust the busy warungs full of locals, the food moves fast there and never sits around. For fruit, peel it or skip it. Mangoes, bananas, papaya and mangosteen are all wonderful, while raw salads are best eaten in places you trust to wash their produce in filtered water.
And please, go easy the first few days. Your body is adjusting to heat, a new time zone and new food, so maybe not the triple sambal, three cocktails and the big night out all on day one. Hydrate more than you think, we sweat constantly in the tropics and coconut water is nature's own electrolyte drink. Finally, sleep and practise. A tired, stressed body has a weaker gut, and your morning practice, your breath and your rest all support digestion, as the gut and the nervous system talk to each other all day long.
Foods that support your gut in the tropics
This is where it gets delicious. A happy gut loves variety, plants, fibre and a little fermentation. And Indonesia, lucky us, is full of it.
Fermented foods
Fermented foods bring friendly bacteria to the party, helping your microbiome stay strong while it adjusts to a new place.
Our star here is tempeh, Indonesia's own gift to the world. Fermented soybeans, packed with protein and naturally gut friendly, a true plant-based hero. Add a glass of kombucha after a sweaty practice, a spoonful of kefir or plant yoghurt with your morning fruit, and a little kimchi, sauerkraut or pickled veggies on the side, a little goes a long way.
Fibre, fibre, fibre
Fibre feeds the good bacteria already living in your gut. A plant based diet in Bali makes this easy: brown or red rice, beans, lentils, leafy greens, sweet potato, oats, chia seeds, and tropical fruit like papaya, banana and dragon fruit. Papaya in particular is a gentle friend to digestion.
Local herbs and roots
The Balinese have been healing bellies long before any of us arrived with our travel insurance.
Try jamu, the traditional herbal tonic, often made with turmeric (kunyit), ginger and tamarind, kunyit asam being the classic. Ginger soothes nausea and warms the digestive fire, turmeric is anti-inflammatory and golden in every way, and lemongrass and galangal are beautiful in teas and soups to calm the stomach. And young coconut water keeps you hydrated with its natural electrolytes.
If Bali belly has already found you, keep it simple for a day or two: plain rice, banana, steamed veggies, clear broths, ginger tea, coconut water, and an oral rehydration solution (ask for oralit at any apotek). Then slowly bring back the fibre and the ferments as your body feels ready. Listen to it, just as you would on the mat.
When to see a doctor
Most Bali belly passes with rest, fluids and simple food. But please, don't be a hero. Surrendering is not the same as ignoring. See a doctor or visit a clinic if you notice:
Blood or mucus in your stool
A high fever (above 38.5°C)
Signs of dehydration: very dark urine or hardly any, dizziness, dry mouth, feeling faint
You can't keep any fluids down
Symptoms lasting more than three days, or getting worse instead of better
Severe or constant stomach pain
You are pregnant, or it is a small child or an older person who is unwell
Canggu has plenty of good clinics and many doctors will even come to your villa. There is no shame in asking for help, it is part of taking care of yourself.
This article shares experience and general information, not medical advice. Always check with a health professional if you are unsure.
Gut-friendly picks at Ubuntu café
Food has always been at the heart of our community. Back at Samadi I was in the kitchen creating recipes between teaching and dishwashing, and with Ubuntu we always knew the café would be the place where people gather, connect and get to know each other after practice.
So yes, we have a café and restaurant, Ubuntu Café, tucked away in our little jungle sanctuary in Canggu. The menu is plant based, made with fresh, organic, GMO-free ingredients from local farms, and created by our chef Nikki, a Balinese yoga teacher and nutritionist who knows a thing or two about happy bellies. Here are a few of my favourites when your gut needs some kindness.
On a fragile morning, our Banana Oat Porridge is like a warm blanket for the belly, soft, gentle and full of soluble fibre. When you feel stronger, the Pink Beach Bowl with dragon fruit, banana, pineapple, coconut flakes and granola brings colour, fibre and tropical fruit back to your plate, and the Maca Berry Cacao Bowl adds blueberries, goji and a little cacao magic after a Mysore practice.
Once your appetite is fully back, the Vegan B.Fast or the Protein Load will refuel you properly, and the Nasi Goreng Kampung is a Balinese classic, freshly cooked and hot, exactly how your gut likes it. And all day long, sip our herbal teas and fresh juices to keep you hydrated in the heat.
The café is open daily from 8 am to 4 pm, at Jl. Bantan Kangin, Gg. Mangga VIII, Tibubeneng. Not staying with us? No problem, everyone is welcome, and you can even order through GoFood.
Whether you are coming for yoga classes in Canggu, staying with us for an ashtanga intensive or a detox retreat in Bali, or simply looking for a vegan restaurant in Canggu where the food is honest and the vibe is warm, come and sit with us. Bring your appetite, your questions, and of course your belly.
Our gut, like our practice, likes to be met every day with a little care. Small steps, nourishing choices, and a lot of love.
See you at the café,
With love and light always,
Andréa & the Ubuntu Bali Family